Shrub Roses are hardy plants and flourish in a wide range of conditions, but they do have a few basic requirements you need to consider before you plant.
Planting
Since the Mohawk Valley has a predominantly clay soil, which has poor drainage, it is recommended to plant your roses in a raised or mounded bed. A raised bed will keep the rootball of your plant above the existing ground level, which would allow proper drainage. The planting hole should be 12 to 18 inches deep and twice the width of the container. The bud union of your rose (a *bump* at the top of the roots) should be 1 to 2 inches below ground level. A soil mixed with peat moss and composted manure is an ideal medium.
Watering
Any newly planted tree or shrub, depending upon the weather conditions, will probably need to be watered at least once a week for the next 2 to 4 weeks. If your plant is exposed to hot weather during its first year, you may have to water more often. The easiest and best way to tell if your plant needs water is to make a hole in the soil about two inches deep beneath your plant and feel if there is moisture or not. If the soil feels dry it is recommended to set a hose at a trickle at the base of the plant until the area is thoroughly wet. Watering times will vary depending on the size of the rootball. Usually a quick sprinkle from a can does not provide enough water to seep into the deeper roots. If you do water from above, do so early in the morning so the foliage has a chance to dry. This discourages disease.There is always a chance of over watering also, again the best thing to do is to check your soils moisture level.
Fertilizing
It is important to replace the nutrients your rose takes from the soil through the growing season. Newly planted roses should not be fertilized for several months unless the fertilizer was mixed in the planting hole. For established roses the general rules for fertilizing are:
1. Fertilize when plants are in full leaf in the spring (use a granular, slow release fertilzer).
2. Fertilize again after the first bloom.
3. Fertilize again in the early part of August.
4. For proper hardening of canes for winter, do not fertilize late in the fall.
Basic fertilizers like 5-10-5 or comparable grades and Rose-Tone are all good fertilizers to use. Follow instructions closely for fertilizer applications for any product you choose to use.
Mulching
A 2-4″ layer of mulch over the root area of your rose will be beneficial. While keeping the soil cool and moist, the mulch will also control weeds.
Pruning
Roses should be pruned to promote their health, vigor, and directions – to tell them how and where to grow. Pruning gives the plant a shape, a style, removes unproductive wood and provides good air circulation. The best time to prune is before new growth starts in the spring. Fall pruning is necessary only when plants are extremely tall, to prevent wind damage during the winter. Any pruning shear with a sharp curved blade will be less apt to cause injury to the canes than a straight-cut pruner. Long handled lopers should be used for larger canes. Weak or diseased canes should be the first canes removed. Winter-damaged wood, which looks brown on the outside, light brown and dry when cut, should be cut off 1 to 2 inches below the damage. Any branches crossing or rubbing another should be removed – always leave the newest, healthiest canes. If you are not sure what to cut, wait. You can always make more cuts later when the bush has leafed out and you can see its shape more easily.
How To Prune:
1. Trim twiggy top growth about a third so you can see the structure of the plant.
2. Take out dead wood, canes that cross the center of the bush, and any shoots (suckers) below the bud union.
3. Shape the plant by removing some canes. You are safe in cutting back 5 to 10 strong canes.
4. Cut 1/4″ above dormant bud eyes that face the outside or the bush. New growth will come from these eyes.
